Beach Week, Koh Lanta Edition!

After a day-long journey crossing the Andaman Sea from Phuket, we tiredly negotiated a tuk-tuk ride from the Koh Lanta pier and checked into the Lemonade Boutique Inn. Another winner, this hotel was located just a block from Klong Dao Beach on the northwestern side of the island. The welcoming staff served us refreshing glasses of lemonade during check-in, which was a nice touch! Nate was still feeling too sunburnt to swim, so Matt and I changed into our bathing suits for a late-afternoon dip in the ocean while Nate relaxed over beer at a beach-side café. Klong Dao had a much quieter, secluded vibe than Karon Beach. For one, Koh Lanta does not have the kitschy, tourist development that Phuket is known for. The backsides of resorts and cafes line the beach but there is no main road bordering the sand; the beach is completely blocked off from loud traffic presence. The sand at Klong Dao was harder-packed with seaweed strewn about, making it ideal for running but not as comfortable for lounging. The ocean water was warm and clear with a brownish tint, and its waves were even more relaxed than at Karon Beach. While swimming in the water and looking towards the sand, a thick layer of jungle-like trees covered the hills behind the local establishments in the foreground, which added to the remoteness of the setting and differentiated Koh Lanta from beaches we have at home in the US. It was a wonderful place!

First evening at Klong Dao Beach in Koh Lanta.

Sipping a margarita!

Aside from ocean swimming, Nate, Matt, and I enjoyed two sunset dinners at cafes along the beach; our tables were positioned directly on the sand and we could hear the small waves crashing as we feasted on curry and Pad Thai dishes both evenings. Our first evening we were even treated to an unexpected fire dancing show, during which a male performer danced with sticks and ropes that had large (and seemingly dangerous) torches at the ends. Set to fast-paced music, his dances involved throwing the fire-adorned branches and ropes above his head, turning around, and catching them. The audience of about 50 people sitting on the beach cheered loudly, clearly very into the show! Sometimes the performer missed the catch, however and the fireballs would land in the sand. The whole thing was a bit frightening but very entertaining.

Fire dancing show on the beach in Koh Lanta.

Eating dinner on the beach in Koh Lanta.

Our second day in Koh Lanta we signed up for a full-day, four-island snorkeling adventure package with one of the many local tour companies. It ended up being the best day of our beach week! The entire trip (including pick-up and drop-off at our hotel) cost USD $26 per person for lunch, snorkel gear, boat trips between the four islands, and two guides. It was a great deal and completely worthwhile! Neither Nate nor Matt had really snorkeled before, so they didn’t know what to expect. I had snorkeled a handful of times in Mexico and Costa Rica, but every experience is so different and this was probably the coolest I’ve had. The day trip started with a 20-minute drive to the other side of Koh Lanta to access the pier. We were packed on benches in the back of a truck-bed with a handful of other travelers from different hotels. At the pier we met hundreds of day trippers and everyone boarded “longtail boats”—about 28 passengers per boat. The motor boats split up and went to the islands in a different order so it never felt too crowded at any destination. Our first boat ride was long—about an hour out of Koh Lanta. The views were impressive; small, rock-like islands covered in greenery jutting out of the water. Most of them looked completely uninhabitable because of their rock structure and size, which made me think about how they have probably looked exactly the same and relatively “untouched” for centuries. There’s something really special about seeing nature in its pristine location, and though most of Thailand’s beaches are developed, these rocky island outcroppings seem to maintain their natural state of being.

At the initial stop our boat pulled up close to the cliff-face of an island. We each grabbed a set of snorkel gear—a breathing tube and large goggles—and descended a ladder into the ocean. The water was crystal clear and bright blue, and we were amazed by the number of clown fish swimming around us. Schools of smaller fish were everywhere, and we could see the ocean floor with its various coral formations, plants, and low-swimming eel-like fish. Once I got the hang of breathing through the tube and de-fogging my goggles, it was awesome! Our guides threw bits of food into the water near us and dozens of fish gathered to feast; all of the sudden we would find ourselves surrounded by them, even feeling the slippery fish rush past us in search of their meal. I was able to use our GoPro camera underwater to capture photos and videos of the experience. The second stop was similar at another island, with fewer fish but super fun swimming and exploring. The island’s terrain was also interesting to get so close to, having only seen it from a distance on boat or a beachy coast across the water.

Video taken with the GoPro under the water!

After these two snorkeling stops, we boarded the longtail boat and traversed the bay to reach the Emerald Cave at Koh Muk. Unsure of what to expect, we were instructed to wear neon orange life vests and stay close to the guide who carried a huge flashlight. We all splashed into the water and followed the guide slowly, entering a small cave in the side of the island’s rock face. We swam 80 meters through the dark cave, passing under hanging bats. The water was still bright blue, which was a really impressive effect juxtaposed with the darkness of the cavern. We exited the cave in a small lagoon, and a sandy, closed-in area with beautiful trees was all around us. Apparently pirates had once hidden their treasure in this secluded area. It’s almost impossible to describe how cool this area was, and we took lots of pictures and walked around for a bit before returning into the lagoon and swimming back through the cave to our boat.

Entrance to the Emerald Cave.

Swimming through the Emerald Cave!

Nate and Matt in the secret grotto area after we swam through the cave.

Holding a jellyfish that our guide pulled from the water. Luckily no one was stung!

Last stop: lunch and swimming at Koh Ngai, the most beautiful beach I have ever seen. The water was so clear, sand so white and soft, and the view of islands in the distance was stunning. We all spread out our towels on the sand and ate a curry dish, omelets, rice, and vegetables that our guide had packed for the trip. We were very hungry at this point, and I headed back for seconds almost immediately. Nate and Matt sipped Chang beers on the shore while I ventured into the water for a dip, taking more pictures on my GoPro to capture the magic of the place. I wish I could go back now! We wrapped up lunch and walked through the shallow water back to our boat to head home, arriving at our hotel around 5:00pm. It was a truly wonderful day!

Eating lunch on the beach in Koh Ngai.

The most beautiful beach I've ever seen. Our boat is behind me in the distance.

In sum, Koh Lanta was fantastic, offering us a great local beach and serving as a launching point for the memorable snorkeling trip. It was so different from the heavily-visited areas of Phuket and Krabi, which I will discuss in my next post. Thanks for reading!